Starry
Nebulae
by Capt. Scott Sparrow
A single
dream ran endlessly through the night. The shallow, clear water of the
Laguna Madre was darkened to a tannic brown by the shadows of thick low
clouds that tumbled aimlessly overhead. Craig Matthews waded
through
the water, draped in fly line and looking for the distinctive black
tails
of giant speckled trout. He was losing hope of finding them.
"Hey Craig!
Are you up?" The silhouette of a man peering through the louvered
window
startled Craig into semi-wakefulness. Recognizing the familiar voice of
his best friend Steve Rafferty, Craig yelled, "Yeh. Hold on a minute."
He swung his feet onto the worn linoleum, and limped to the door,
favoring
a bad knee.
"Well,
at least Mr. Coffee knows when to wake up," Steve said sarcastically as
he sauntered through the back door toward the full pot that was already
a half-hour old. He poured himself a cup and plopped down at the table.
Wincing from a sip too quickly taken, he exclaimed, "Come on, man,
we're
wasting precious time!"
As Steve
dug into his cereal, Craig dressed in the makeshift bedroom on the back
porch of the cottage. Remnants of feathers and fur littered the floor
from
a hasty fly tying session the night before. His Sage six-weight lay
strung
and ready on the unused side of the double bed, with the vintage
Gunnison
glinting paintless in places. In the corner of the room, a framed photo
of his son Billy stood in the middle of a battered end table, kept
company
by several flies that testified mutely to some of Craig’s more
memorable
catches.
Craig realized
that his lack of enthusiasm was showing, so he picked up the pace in
spite
of how he felt. It was hard for him to participate in a
kill-tournament,
but his friendship with Steve mattered more than the survival of a few
fish. Steve, a well-respected fly fishing guide on the lower Laguna
Madre,
had let things slide after his wife died. A win in the prestigious
Laguna
Madre Invitational Tournament would provide a much-needed boost to his
sagging business. Craig was a guide, too, but his regular job as a
social
worker took care of his basic needs. It was fortunate, because in the
last
few months, his interest in fly fishing had been waning.
As Craig
emerged from the bedroom, Steve was already heading for the door,
coffee
in hand. "I'll drive the boat. You can take some breakfast with you.
I've
got the lunches and drinks." Craig grabbed some toast and his gear, and
followed Steve down to the dock where Craig's skiff was moored.
The two
fly fishers headed east down the Arroyo, shining the q-beam along the
shoreline
in search of deer and javelina. The drone of the outboard limited their
conversation to occasional shouts; and except for the search light's
erratic
probing, there was nothing much to see.
Craig
sat alone on the ice chest in front of the center console, and let his
thoughts and feelings range freely in the privacy created by the steady
sound and the predawn darkness. He recalled making this journey
countless
times as a child.
As his father
would drive their old plywood boat toward the mouth of the Arroyo,
Craig
would sit with his legs over the bow, gripping the rope like a bronco
rider,
and relishing the moist summer air flowing over him. The
pervasive
smell of fish both living and dead, the spent anvilheads towering over
the Gulf, the cool pockets of air left over from the night, the
occasional
coyote roaming the tidal flats, the mullet-eating herons lined up along
the shore -- each familiar sensation greeted him as part of a rich,
expansive
experience of arriving at the place most precious to him in all of the
world.
Craig
could still feel the faint magic of his boyhood excitement stirring.
But
his grief over recent events quickly overshadowed it.
Looking
back, the divorce still seemed necessary. Jessica finally
admitted
that it had been the best thing for her, too. But she never failed to
add,
"I could never have hurt Billy like that."
He had
hoped that by moving back to Texas, he could establish a lifestyle that
would appeal to a 13-year-old boy who had only known city life, and
that
the memory of his father’s departure would quickly fade. But
Craig's
hopes had collapsed under the reality of the situation. During
Billy's
first visit -- which, at first, seemed to be going pretty well -- Billy
finally broke down and told his father how sad and angry he was, and
how
he felt he really didn’t know his father at all. Upon his return
to North Carolina, Billy began making vague excuses about why he couldn't
come
visit for a while; and then gradually, he stopped responding to Craig's
calls and letters. Feeling helpless, Craig called less often, and the
depression
that he'd managed to keep at bay for most of his life came rushing in
to
claim its victim.
"Where
to?" Steve yelled. As he approached the mouth of the Arroyo and
the
shallow, clear flats of the lower Laguna, he pulled back on the
throttle.
Steve waited patiently for Craig's call, because he knew that Craig
understood
big speckled
trout like no one else alive.
Craig
remained silent at first. He gazed northward, and could almost make out
the dark outline of Green Island against the blue-gray sky. But
his
thoughts ranged far beyond that familiar landmark, and eventually came
to rest at a lagoon so remote that most fishermen knew it only by name.
"The best
place to find big trout in mid-August, assuming we have a high tide, is
Glady's Hole," Craig said with conviction. "Of course," he added, "it's
a bit of a run."
"A bit
of a run!" Steve protested. "It's 35 miles from here! We'll spend
half the day making the round trip!" He shook his head.
"Well,"
Craig said calmly, "I don't much care to join the spin and bait circus
at the Trout Bar. The fish will be there, most likely, but you know
what
will happen. You'll be stalking a big trout, and then someone will plow
across the flat, and just smile and wave."
"Yeh,
you're right," Steve admitted. "We wouldn't stand much of a chance
there."
After pausing to consider Craig's go-for-broke proposal, Steve said,
"Okay,
Let's do it. But we should have left an hour ago."
Steve
brought the skiff back on plane, and headed due north in the calm bay
water.
They made good time, and were aided by a slight tail wind. But
the
return trip would be another story. By afternoon, a fierce southeast
wind
would face them on the way home. The prospect of a long return trip
against
the wind accounted for why so few fishermen ventured very far to the
north
in the lower Laguna during the summer, when the winds regularly reached
30 mph by afternoon.
As they
skimmed over miles and miles of featureless flats, the horizon greeted
them as a thin line dividing two skies precisely replicated in the
unbroken
surface. The boat itself seemed as motionless as a compass needle when
the captain's hand is steady, and the bow spray supplied the only
credible
evidence of movement. In this world of near-perfect
symmetry,
the harmony that both men desperately sought seemed, at least for a
while,
within reach.
Steve
thought fondly of his wife Laura, who had died in a car accident three
years before. Laura would have relished the sights of the birds, so as
was his habit, Steve silently shared with her what he saw -- the
reddish
egrets hunting canopy-style on the flats, a peregrine falcon perched
atop
a channel marker with the remains of a coot in her talons, and a flock
of roseate spoonbills flying in loose formation. Steve had ceased
thinking
of their conversations as odd or deluded: He simply had become Laura's
eyes and ears in a world that she’d left too soon.
Craig thought again of Billy, and how his son had enjoyed the long,
monotonous
ride up to Glady's Hole. With a rare feeling of hopefulness, Craig
looked
forward to the day when they'd make that journey again. His
thoughts
turned, as well, to his aging father, who had taken Craig to "the north
country" in search of big trout on Craig's 10th birthday, and
innumerable
times thereafter. Craig had always loved these trips, but he could not
fathom why his father was so obsessed with big speckled trout -- fish
that
were difficult to find, and harder to catch. Almost everyone else
preferred
redfish. But somewhere along the way Craig began to see the world as
his
father did. And then the only things that really mattered to him were
few
in number and often beyond his reach -- like difficult fish and God.
Seven
years in a nursing home had almost quenched the fire that had made his
father legendary among local fishermen. Senility was setting in, and
most
of what he said was pretty meaningless. But sometimes his old intensity
burned through the fog that was slowly engulfing his mind. When it did,
he'd turn to Craig with a youthful urgency and ask him the same
question
every time: "Have you seen the starry nebulae?" Craig knew that
the
speckled trout's Latin name meant "starry nebulae," but he wasn’t sure
if that's what his father was referring to. He tried different answers,
but the one that finally satisfied his father was, "Yes, Dad. it's
where
it's always been."
When the
northern shore of the lower Laguna came into view, Steve turned west
and
crossed the bay at its narrowest point. Passing through an
opening
in the shoreline of the King Ranch, the shallow-running skiff entered
the
lagoon referred to by some fishermen as the Northwest Pocket -- or by
others,
more intriguingly, as Glady's Hole. The depth of the water decreased to
about a foot, and the fish that were feeding in the lagoon fled visibly
from the boat's intrusion, leaving wakes as they went. As the skiff
headed
for a small inlet joining the lagoon to a back lake, the men spotted a
few retreating trout mixed in with redfish and sheepshead.
"What’s the
plan?" Steve shouted. He pulled back on the throttle as the boat neared
the southwest shoreline of the lagoon.
"The bigger
trout should be cruising the shallows, chasing baitfish onto the bank."
Craig replied. "Why don't we anchor off that point, and I'll fish the
inlet
while you wade the shoreline?"
"You're giving
me the prime water," Steve protested.
"Maybe," Craig
answered, "but no one ever knows for sure where the big trout will be."
Steve nodded.
"We'd better get moving then. The wind's really coming up."
Sawgrass-covered
dunes and live oak motts lined the shorelines of Glady's Hole. The sun
had been up for over an hour, but the low thin clouds softened the
sunlight,
increasing the chances that the largest trout would continue feeding in
the shallowest water well into mid-morning. Knowing that big trout
would
often come from 10 feet away to inspect surface disturbances, both fly
fishers tied on small poppers with weedguards. Without further
discussion,
they slipped into the cool water, and waded off in different directions.
Steve walked
toward the shoreline, feeling a mixture of relief and apprehension.
Craig
had called it right: The big fish were here, and the conditions were
near
perfect in spite of the rising wind. But Steve had little confidence in
his ability catch a big trout on demand. Skill was a large part
of
it, and he had plenty, but catching a trophy trout normally required a
considerable investment of time on the water: The big ones just didn't
come when you whistled.
Over the course
of the next hour, Steve passed up three small tailing reds, and enjoyed
watching a 20-inch trout snaking its way through the shoal grass in
search
of prey. On another day, he would have enjoyed the prospect of
presenting
to these fish, but today they were mere distractions: He had to catch a
big trout in the next couple of hours, or the tournament would be over.
After wading
up the bank for about 200 yards, he finally saw what he was looking for
-- the dark back of a big trout. She was moving up the shoreline toward
him, breaking the surface as she darted to the right and the left,
chasing
baitfish. Steve waded quietly onto the bank, and dropped to one knee in
the wet sand. Stripping out line until he had enough line beyond the
rod
tip, he draped the line in big coils in his stripping finger. Placing
the
leader between his teeth, and holding the
fly in his left hand, he waited for the trout to come closer. His heart
was racing, and he took deep breaths through clinched teeth to calm
himself.
Finally the
trout's back surfaced again about 40 feet away. He made some false
casts
off to the side, and then repositioned his cast, dropping the popper
about
a foot from the fish's head. Steve let the fly sit for a second, and
then
stripped firmly. The trout lunged after the sound, and flared its gills
as she inhaled the fly. Resisting the impulse to lift his rod, Steve
strip
struck, but missed her. Fortunately, the trout followed the fleeing
popper
and struck again, this time taking it deeply. Steve stood up in place
and
fought her gently, knowing that the trout's tender mouth could not take
much pressure before tearing. Five minutes later, he slid the beautiful
25-inch fish onto the spongegrass-covered bank. Overjoyed at his good
fortune,
he put the fish on his stringer, and hurried back toward the boat to
show
Craig his catch.
Steve was surprised
to see that Craig had only waded about 50 yards from the boat. As
Steve rounded the shoreline, Craig turned and signaled him to hold off.
Then Steve spotted a huge back and tail breaking the surface about 70
feet
behind and upwind of Craig.
"There's a big
one behind you!" he yelled.
Craig glanced
in its direction, and nodded, but he appeared to take no interest in
the
big fish. He wiggled his rod in front of him, turned his head slowly
back
and forth, shrugged, and then took a couple of high steps in slow
motion.
At first Steve was puzzled, but then it suddenly dawned on him: Craig
was
imitating a heron!
Craig
had talked about this strategy before, but it was always over a beer,
and
Steve had dismissed it as just so much hocus pocus. But here clearly,
Craig
wasn't hunting the trout -- he was hunting with the trout. The
wind
had increased, so rather than opting for an upwind cast, Craig was
obviously
waiting for the trout to move downwind of him so could make a clean,
backhanded
presentation. With a fish like that, both fly fishers knew that the
first
cast had to be perfect.
Steve
watched the big fish turn slowly to the right and move alongside Craig.
Craig noted the fish's position every once in a while, but quickly
looked
away each time, and repeated his heron-like movements. Slowly the trout
moved from a crosswind position to slightly downwind. At that point,
Craig
unfurled his line with a studied casualness, and laid the line on the
water
off to the left, away from the fish. Instead of lifting his rod, he
kept
the tip tilted downward, straight at the fly. From where Steve
sat,
Craig looked like a heron poised for a strike: His elbow was at eye
level,
and he held the fly line and the reel high against his face. Then, in
one
fluid movement, he hauled downward with his left hand, and shot
the
line backhanded toward the trout. The popper landed lightly about 18
inches
from the fish's head, on Craig's side. The huge fish reacted before
Craig
could make the first strip. She whirled and accelerated toward him,
seizing
the fly on the run. Turning instantly, she took off in the other
direction
leaving a muddy wake punctuated by powerful thrusts of her tail.
Anticipating the sudden shift of direction, Craig bowed to her, and the
tippet held. He slowly lifted his rod and let her run.
He fought the
trout carefully, keeping the line gently taut as the huge fish thrashed
her head from side to side, revealing her toothy golden mouth.
After
several powerful, darting runs, she began to tire. Cradling his
rod,
Craig finally reached
down and lifted the giant fish out of the water with both hands.
Steve walked
up yelling congratulatory praise. "I can't believe it! She must be at
least
30 inches long!" He was already pulling out his spare stringer to help
Craig clinch the deal. "I've never seen anyone work a fish like that
before."
Steve continued.
"It's usually
not necessary, but she was upwind, and I wasn't sure I could make the
cast."
Craig replied.
Steve
went on. "She'll win the Big Trout Trophy, hand's down, and you're the
man to beat for the entire Bay Division," Steve asserted. "Let's get
the
fish to the boat," and he handed Craig the stringer.
But Craig ignored
Steve's offer. He'd already lowered the fish back into the water, and
was
kneeling beside her. "I don't think I can kill her."
"What!?" Steve
was speechless.
Craig continued
moving the trout back and forth. Without looking up, he replied, "There
isn't much that really matters to me, but one of the things
that
does is not killing this fish." He looked up at Steve, and
continued.
"So, while I'm reviving her, why don't you wade on over there to that
inlet,
and catch one of those reds that have been tailing. I don't want to
have
to pole you around for the rest of the day."
"Are you sure?"
Steve asked incredulously.
"I'm sure." Craig went back to reviving the trout.
After taking
a few steps, Steve remembered that he'd put his camera in his wading
pouch,
so he took it out to take a picture of Craig and his fish. Steve was on
the wrong side of the sun for a good shot, but he thought, At least
he'll have something to show for it later. Through the viewfinder,
Steve saw his best friend on his knees before something that glistened
and undulated in the morning sunlight. Craig's face glistened, too, and
he seemed at once united and at peace with the life that he held in his
hands.
Thinking better
of it, Steve lowered his camera and walked away.
Steve managed
to catch a 27-inch red tailing along the bank, and after a considerable
amount of hooting and hollering, he returned to boat with his two fish.
He and Craig headed south immediately, stopping at the Port Mansfield
Cut
long enough for Steve to dredge the bottom with a sink tip for a
three-pound
flounder -- the third fish he needed for his total. Armed with three
fine
fish, Steve made it to the weigh-in just in time to record the second
heaviest
catch of the day.
It was
dark when Steve dropped Craig off at the cottage.
"Hey man, thanks.
I’ll never forget it." He slapped Craig on the back as he slid out of
the
car.
"You did
great," Craig said as he closed the door, "and you have a good
chance
to win tomorrow. I'll be ready at 5:30," Craig promised.
"Like always!" Steve laughed as he drove off.
On his
way up the sidewalk, Craig saw Belinda Torres, his neighbor, standing
at
the fence with something in her arms.
"Craig, I have
some mail for you," she said bearing a bundle wrapped in thick rubber
bands.
"The mailman said to me, 'Belinda, you tell Mr. Matthews to get a
bigger
mailbox, or to start taking in his mail every day.'" She smiled
sympathetically.
"Sorry, Belinda,"
Craig said, feeling embarrassed. "I'll do better." Craig took four
days of mail in his arms, and noticed that a postcard was strapped
conspicuously
to the outside of the bundle. Belinda avoided his gaze and turned away.
"Belinda?" Craig
called after her. "Thanks." Belinda turned and smiled, and then
hurried on.
He took
his pile of mail to the back porch and and sat on the bed. He pulled
the
card out, and studied the picture longer than he needed to. It was of a
smiling man holding up a bass that was bigger than he was. The
words,
"Come to North Carolina Where Big Fish Rule," appeared in a balloon above the
man's head. Then Craig slowly turned the card over and read his
son's
brief note.
Craig took the
card and put it next to Billy's photo on his crude altar, and for the
second
time that day, he dropped to his knees and let something precious come
to life again.
After a while,
Craig realized it was only 7:30, and that it was only an hour later in
Virginia. He dried his face on his sleeve, dug the phone out from
under some dirty clothes, and dialed a familiar number.
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